A Respite in Kingston

I have just returned from a week in Kingston, Jamaica where I essentially did nothing and got a chance to escape the constant tinnitus of what’s going on in our country. 

Let me tell you about Kingston.  It is the commercial hub of Jamaica.  It is NOT a beach resort and a tourist destination.  Rather it is the center of commerce, government and business for the country.  It is a classic example of crumbling infrastructure, horrible traffic due to very little urban roadway planning, and a population that is not truly aware of its roots and history.  They are wonderful warm people, but with little appreciation for what’s going on in the rest of the world.  It is an international city with all manner of ethnicities and cultures.  It is a true melting pot in that sense.

Life is slower there—unless you are driving, which I did for the first two days before I returned my rental car out of sheer fear of death and I hired a car and two drivers who chauffeured us around and tamed the madness of the streets.  Gas is expensive, but food is not and the choices for gastronomical exploration are many! 

We visited a remote beach area where fisherman bring freshly caught parrot fish and snapper to the beach kitchens to be cooked by native chefs who do wonderful and amazing things by steaming and seasoning the catch!  Sitting there and savoring the flavors of all the added vegetables, plantains and beignet type croissants while sipping a Red Stripe sorrel beer was a divine diversion! 

Visits to Kingston are not for those seeking placid beaches and restful experiences.  If on the other hand you want to eat some great Jamaican cuisine, visit some interesting museums (The Bob Marley Museum; the National Jamaica Gallery), then it can be an enlightening experience.   

At the Marley House, the guide actually led us through the mansion while singing Marley tunes that described the man’s life and contribution to music.  It was a wonderful interactive experience to come to know the man behind the music.  At the National Gallery, there was an exhibition of the contest to create a Reggae poster celebrating Bob Marley’s life and music.  The art was sensational.  The Museum also explored the cultural roots of the Jamaican story from its inception in Columbus’s time through the Spanish presence and then ultimately to the British territorial occupation until Jamaica became an independent country.  Very interesting stuff.  

The young native men we had chauffeuring us around were almost completely unaware of their heritage which is a shame, because it is a story of escape from slavery and oppression that is inspiring.

Security is an issue.  Gates and locks are omnipresent everywhere!  Apparently crime is a real threat in most places.  Security personnel are apparent in almost all public places like parking lots, grocery stores, pharmacies, restaurants, etc.  People looking out for your safety are everywhere.  It is reassuring and frightening at the same time.

We had an apartment in a gated community in the hills overlooking the city with a fabulous view and frankly that was the best part of our vacation.  It was mesmerizing to take in the ocean, the port of Kingston and the bustling city all at once from a perch in the foothills.  The sunsets were breathtaking and the mornings were energizing as the city came to life from our perch.  The break from reality was truly a breath of fresh air.

And so, when we returned to the US, we were immediately reconnected to the roiling saga of our political restlessness.

I have been absorbing the news about the Congress’ moves to blunt the “National Emergency” that we face as the result of the Trump mania, and the sense that Trump has committed himself to deconstructing the Constitution as much as he can and as much as his Republican cronies will allow him to.  I think I need another day to process it all, but I am working on a way to express my feelings about where I think the country is heading and why we must all assess what we can do to save our Republic….  More to come in the next few days.

In the meantime, I am am basking in the recent mellowness that being in Jamaica has left me with…and trying to figure out how to re-engage with my life here in the US.  Perspective is a good thing to re-evaluate from time to time…..